Having spent my growing up years in this quiet pensioners paradise – Mysooru as its originally called or the more modern name Mysore, this city has evolved leaps and bounds, but yet has managed to retain its old world charm. Mysore, a city with a rather sleepy & lethargic feel comes alive, brimming with vibrancy and flocked by culture-vultures from all over the world – come Dussehra. The spotlight shifts to the city’s most treasured edifice – ‘The Mysore Palace’, illuminated with over 100,000 bulbs this majestic palace is lit every evening through the celebrations. 
The tradition of Dasara(also spelt as Dussehra)– is celebrated with great pomp and show since the time of the Maharajas. Dussehra literally translating to "Dush-hara" - destroyer of the bad, a festival celebrating the win of good over evil is the most revered festival in this region.The grandeur of the sacred Dussehra is also evident in the homes of all Mysoreans. Starting on day one "Bombe Habba" (Doll festival) is celebrated in every household, and it is even more special in homes with little children. This brings out the age old collection of dolls depicting stories surrounding the festivities and of the epic Mahabharata and several newer additions too. The center of all the dolls called "Raja and Rani" is adorned with jewels and rich drapes, it is called "Pattada Bombe". This display of colorful dolls is on throughout the festivities. Catch a glimpse of Mysore's most famous home known as "Bombe Mane"
This is one time of the year when everyone in the family get together in festive spirits. After I moved to Bangalore a good 11 years ago, I have always made sure I was there for the 10-day long Dussehra puja that is celebrated in all its traditional flavors at my grandfather’s place. Born in a city that is known for its rich cultural heritage and strong family ties, with this write-up I dig deeper into its much celebrated glory and my memories of it over the years.
Day ten when the puja draws to a close is when everyone in the family sits down after a scrumptious breakfast, and one such time about 2 years ago is when I got talking to Grandpa - one of our many cultural and philosophical talks I have had with him over the years.This time, our conversation was centered around the history behind the grandeur and visual treat this city has given India and the world year after year. Taking me into a time capsule, to the era of the Maharajas, Grandpa told me about the days preceding the celebrations in the city.
The preparations of the festivities began with the intense training sessions between man and his majestic beast – the elephant. Every day the elephants walked from the palace to Bannimantapa, carrying weights of 750 kilos on its back. This majestic animal handles all the weight (literally and otherwise!!) of the procession with ease, striding along with its graceful walk.
The festival dawns in the ‘Ashweja Masa’of the Hindu calendar. On the first day, known as Padya, Mysore households and the inhabitants of the palace begin festivities by invoking goddess Chamundeshwari and asking for her blessings for yet another year of wealth and prosperity to the city and its people. Special offerings are made to the goddess through all the ten days of festivities. The Maharaja performs puja as a mark of respect to the ancestral throne made in pure gold and adorned with jewels, every evening before he takes his seat.
A Durbar is held even today, with the erstwhile Maharaja’s son Krishnaraja Wodeyar leading the proceedings. I had the sheer honor of being witness to this royal tradition a few years ago. Once the puja is done, the king steps down from the thrown and his wife performs the traditional ‘Muttina Aarti’ – performed using a round platter studded with royal pearls. This ritual takes place everyday starting from Padya, the first day of the festival till Ekadashi, the tenth day.
As engrossed as we were, I remember my sister joining in with some piping hot Mysore filter coffee for us. Sipping on coffee we learn about the eighth day (or Ashtami as it is called) of the celebrations, which marks the Saraswati puja, a day where the goddess of knowledge is honored. This is the day we most enjoyed as kids, since we would be asked for few books to keep in front of the goddess & we would give away the most important ones generously (our escape route)!
The ninth day is when the focus now shifts to the palace where all the training given to the regal elephants comes into play. This was the day, when the king and his son ascend on the 750-kilo Ambari (a mini thrown), with all their kingly attire of added kilos of jewelry and would go on a procession, striding along the vibrant streets, towards the Bannimantapa (In recent times however, it is only Goddess Chamundeshwari who ascends on this thrown, this is after the Government took over the responsibilities of the celebrations). Offerings are made at the mantapa and the leaf of the Banni tree is taken and distributed amongst relatives and friends.
The ninth day also marks the celebration of “Ayudh Puja”. “Ayudh” primarily refers to weapons, according to the epic Mahabharata – Arjun was believed to have found his divine weapon on this day & hence it is believed to be auspicious to begin or revamp/reinvent your learning on this day. People buy new machinery, automobiles and much more that they believe will bring prosperity and good luck to their business.History apart, this day brings back fond memories of celebrating with family. At home, we begin our day by making a paste of “kumkum”/Vermillion and apply a little of this paste to all the appliances used at home as well as our car. Dad always loved doing this ritual and went big on the “red tika”, followed by a flower. We also decorated our car with bright flowers, rolled the wheels over a lemon and did a little “Arti” too. Then dad would be off to office to attend the puja there and being in the manufacturing industry it was always a big day for them. At home I would wait for his arrival as he would bring loads of sweet and savory snacks to munch on. Mom would make “Usli”/Sundal (stir friend sprouted lentils in coconut) in the evening.
Reminiscing about the celebrations and so engrossed we had almost forgotten that it was time to catch the live telecast of the procession on TV. Having seen the procession up close several times, now that most of us have moved out of Mysore, it has become more of a family reunion sort of thing, so we enjoy watching it together at home.
The highlight being of course the elegantly decked up elephants, along side elaborate tableau's making their way through the packed city streets, with enthusiasts peaking from roof tops, tree tops and tall buildings, it is a sight no one wants to miss. The most entertaining of the tableau's for me have always been the traditional folk dances from different parts of the state like the Dolu Kunitha (Dolu: a drum) & Kamsale dance. The vigor and vitality of the city’s celebrations attracts people from across the globe, who plan their holidays around this time.
The last day of the celebrations has many cultural shows across various venues of the city, such as dramatics depicting stories relating to the festivities, Bharatnatyam performances and musical concerts.
Speaking of Bharatnatyam, it takes me back to my years in Mysore where I learnt this traditional dance form from my guru Dr.Tulasi Ramachandran who runs a dance school called Nrityalaya, and has made many contributions to the field of classical dance and Kannada literature and was even awarded the “Kannada Rajyotsava Award” for her achievements. Memories of Vijayadashami, is a day when we thank our teachers and gurus. At our dance school the atmosphere would be of giggles and chatter of kids of all age groups, and we would give platters of fruits and flowers to our teacher, ‘Amma’ as she is fondly called by her students and receive her abundant blessings. She would show us her love by having these lovely gifts laid out, which she would divide into categories for different age groups and let us pick what we wanted! This day also marks the torch light parade held at the university open theater which is attended by several heads of state along with the hundreds of thousands of enthusiasts.
Well, this was my rendezvous with my dearest Grandpa - running through all aspects of this cultural extravaganza (hugs to Grandpa). I’m left nostalgic, I miss home, I miss family, longing to see them and hug them and tell them how much they mean to me. Its festivities in India that bring families closer, undo any negative emotions and instill in us a feeling of togetherness. I’m proud to be from a country so immensely blessed with culture and of course to belong to a city that is the very definition of Dusshera to me :)
PS: I kept the festival alive here in New York in our little home with some tasty food, prayers, offerings and blessings. Hope everyone had a great festival! Sharing a little glimpse with all :)
The tradition of Dasara(also spelt as Dussehra)– is celebrated with great pomp and show since the time of the Maharajas. Dussehra literally translating to "Dush-hara" - destroyer of the bad, a festival celebrating the win of good over evil is the most revered festival in this region.The grandeur of the sacred Dussehra is also evident in the homes of all Mysoreans. Starting on day one "Bombe Habba" (Doll festival) is celebrated in every household, and it is even more special in homes with little children. This brings out the age old collection of dolls depicting stories surrounding the festivities and of the epic Mahabharata and several newer additions too. The center of all the dolls called "Raja and Rani" is adorned with jewels and rich drapes, it is called "Pattada Bombe". This display of colorful dolls is on throughout the festivities. Catch a glimpse of Mysore's most famous home known as "Bombe Mane"
This is one time of the year when everyone in the family get together in festive spirits. After I moved to Bangalore a good 11 years ago, I have always made sure I was there for the 10-day long Dussehra puja that is celebrated in all its traditional flavors at my grandfather’s place. Born in a city that is known for its rich cultural heritage and strong family ties, with this write-up I dig deeper into its much celebrated glory and my memories of it over the years.
Day ten when the puja draws to a close is when everyone in the family sits down after a scrumptious breakfast, and one such time about 2 years ago is when I got talking to Grandpa - one of our many cultural and philosophical talks I have had with him over the years.This time, our conversation was centered around the history behind the grandeur and visual treat this city has given India and the world year after year. Taking me into a time capsule, to the era of the Maharajas, Grandpa told me about the days preceding the celebrations in the city.
The preparations of the festivities began with the intense training sessions between man and his majestic beast – the elephant. Every day the elephants walked from the palace to Bannimantapa, carrying weights of 750 kilos on its back. This majestic animal handles all the weight (literally and otherwise!!) of the procession with ease, striding along with its graceful walk.
The festival dawns in the ‘Ashweja Masa’of the Hindu calendar. On the first day, known as Padya, Mysore households and the inhabitants of the palace begin festivities by invoking goddess Chamundeshwari and asking for her blessings for yet another year of wealth and prosperity to the city and its people. Special offerings are made to the goddess through all the ten days of festivities. The Maharaja performs puja as a mark of respect to the ancestral throne made in pure gold and adorned with jewels, every evening before he takes his seat.
A Durbar is held even today, with the erstwhile Maharaja’s son Krishnaraja Wodeyar leading the proceedings. I had the sheer honor of being witness to this royal tradition a few years ago. Once the puja is done, the king steps down from the thrown and his wife performs the traditional ‘Muttina Aarti’ – performed using a round platter studded with royal pearls. This ritual takes place everyday starting from Padya, the first day of the festival till Ekadashi, the tenth day.
As engrossed as we were, I remember my sister joining in with some piping hot Mysore filter coffee for us. Sipping on coffee we learn about the eighth day (or Ashtami as it is called) of the celebrations, which marks the Saraswati puja, a day where the goddess of knowledge is honored. This is the day we most enjoyed as kids, since we would be asked for few books to keep in front of the goddess & we would give away the most important ones generously (our escape route)!
The ninth day is when the focus now shifts to the palace where all the training given to the regal elephants comes into play. This was the day, when the king and his son ascend on the 750-kilo Ambari (a mini thrown), with all their kingly attire of added kilos of jewelry and would go on a procession, striding along the vibrant streets, towards the Bannimantapa (In recent times however, it is only Goddess Chamundeshwari who ascends on this thrown, this is after the Government took over the responsibilities of the celebrations). Offerings are made at the mantapa and the leaf of the Banni tree is taken and distributed amongst relatives and friends.
The ninth day also marks the celebration of “Ayudh Puja”. “Ayudh” primarily refers to weapons, according to the epic Mahabharata – Arjun was believed to have found his divine weapon on this day & hence it is believed to be auspicious to begin or revamp/reinvent your learning on this day. People buy new machinery, automobiles and much more that they believe will bring prosperity and good luck to their business.History apart, this day brings back fond memories of celebrating with family. At home, we begin our day by making a paste of “kumkum”/Vermillion and apply a little of this paste to all the appliances used at home as well as our car. Dad always loved doing this ritual and went big on the “red tika”, followed by a flower. We also decorated our car with bright flowers, rolled the wheels over a lemon and did a little “Arti” too. Then dad would be off to office to attend the puja there and being in the manufacturing industry it was always a big day for them. At home I would wait for his arrival as he would bring loads of sweet and savory snacks to munch on. Mom would make “Usli”/Sundal (stir friend sprouted lentils in coconut) in the evening.
Reminiscing about the celebrations and so engrossed we had almost forgotten that it was time to catch the live telecast of the procession on TV. Having seen the procession up close several times, now that most of us have moved out of Mysore, it has become more of a family reunion sort of thing, so we enjoy watching it together at home.
The highlight being of course the elegantly decked up elephants, along side elaborate tableau's making their way through the packed city streets, with enthusiasts peaking from roof tops, tree tops and tall buildings, it is a sight no one wants to miss. The most entertaining of the tableau's for me have always been the traditional folk dances from different parts of the state like the Dolu Kunitha (Dolu: a drum) & Kamsale dance. The vigor and vitality of the city’s celebrations attracts people from across the globe, who plan their holidays around this time.
The last day of the celebrations has many cultural shows across various venues of the city, such as dramatics depicting stories relating to the festivities, Bharatnatyam performances and musical concerts.
Speaking of Bharatnatyam, it takes me back to my years in Mysore where I learnt this traditional dance form from my guru Dr.Tulasi Ramachandran who runs a dance school called Nrityalaya, and has made many contributions to the field of classical dance and Kannada literature and was even awarded the “Kannada Rajyotsava Award” for her achievements. Memories of Vijayadashami, is a day when we thank our teachers and gurus. At our dance school the atmosphere would be of giggles and chatter of kids of all age groups, and we would give platters of fruits and flowers to our teacher, ‘Amma’ as she is fondly called by her students and receive her abundant blessings. She would show us her love by having these lovely gifts laid out, which she would divide into categories for different age groups and let us pick what we wanted! This day also marks the torch light parade held at the university open theater which is attended by several heads of state along with the hundreds of thousands of enthusiasts.
Well, this was my rendezvous with my dearest Grandpa - running through all aspects of this cultural extravaganza (hugs to Grandpa). I’m left nostalgic, I miss home, I miss family, longing to see them and hug them and tell them how much they mean to me. Its festivities in India that bring families closer, undo any negative emotions and instill in us a feeling of togetherness. I’m proud to be from a country so immensely blessed with culture and of course to belong to a city that is the very definition of Dusshera to me :)
PS: I kept the festival alive here in New York in our little home with some tasty food, prayers, offerings and blessings. Hope everyone had a great festival! Sharing a little glimpse with all :)
Loved it! As ever! :)
ReplyDeleteAwesome and good experience!!!
ReplyDeleteThank you :)
Deletenice post. thanks for sharing. from www.chennaicakesdelivery.com
ReplyDelete